Yosemite National Park
By: Caitlin Williams
When Europeans are asked what Americans do right one of the first things they say is our national parks system. And if Yosemite isn’t the greatest of America’s national parks, it is certainly in the top two or three. First protected by Abraham Lincoln in 1864, Yosemite National Park is best known for its waterfalls, but within its nearly 1,200 square miles you can find deep valleys, grand meadows, ancient giant sequoias, a vast wilderness area, and much more.
There is an often-repeated story about a man who came up to Yosemite and said to the ranger at the front gate, “I’ve only got one hour to see Yosemite. If you only had one hour to see Yosemite, what would you do?” And the ranger said, “Well, I’d go right over there, and I’d sit on that rock, and I’d cry.” While my husband and I did not try to see all of Yosemite in an hour, we did try to hit the highlights over the course of two days during my 40th birthday trip to California. While that left far more unseen than seen, we did have an unforgettable visit to one of the most breathtaking places I have ever been.
After two days in Napa and Sonoma, we drove a few hours through California’s central valley to Yosemite. While the major sites in Yosemite – and the majority of the visitors – are in Yosemite Valley, our first stop was Mariposa Grove. Located in the southern portion of Yosemite, the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is the largest sequoia grove in Yosemite and is home to over 500 mature giant sequoias. If you have never seen a Redwood or a Giant Sequoia (they are very similar) in person, there is no amount of words or pictures that can convey what it is like to be in their presence. You have to see these natural wonders to believe them.
We also learned so much about what makes these trees the way they are. I had no idea that trees communicate with one another through their root systems, and so, for example, if one tree needs water it will send out a message through their root-based internet and its neighbors will send it what it needs.
After an incredible afternoon hiking through Mariposa Grove, we drove out of that part of the park and to our lodging for the next two days: AutoCamp Yosemite. AutoCamp is about a 45-minute drive from the front entrance of the park, but well worth the trip. You can “glamp” in a tent if you like, but we opted for an airstream trailer, and I am so glad we did. I felt like a glamorous 1950’s vacationer the whole time I was there. They have completely modernized the airstream trailers and added a queen-sized bed, a TV, and a full bathroom with a shower that rivals anything you might find in a luxury hotel. It was a great choice of lodging.
We awoke early the next day and went straight to the main entrance of Yosemite to avoid having to wait for hours to enter the park and were successful. It took us no more than 30 minutes or so from arriving at the entrance to parking the car and beginning our exploration. Yosemite is around 1,200 square miles, but Yosemite Valley is only about six square miles, and its where 95% of the 200,000 to 600,000 monthly visitors during the peak season are going to be. The valley is not a place to quietly commune with nature. But it is going to be where you have to go if you want to see Half Dome, El Capitan, Cathedral Rock and a lot of the other classic Yosemite sights that you absolutely should see. You could easily spend a week in the park and just two days of that in Yosemite Valley. Because we were there early, we had a chance to walk around the valley floor and have a lot of views of those iconic attractions to ourselves as well as learn some about the valley’s history and culture.
After a quiet morning of sightseeing, we went to a valley store/restaurant and stocked up on supplies and headed off to hike the Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall Trails. The website lists the first part as moderate and the second two parts as strenuous, but they are really not doing it justice! Bear in mind that my husband and I have done multi-day backpacking/hiking trips (before kids, but still), had hiked to the top of Table Rock a few months earlier, and I have run half-marathons, but even with all that, there were times I did not think we were going to make it to the top of this mountain!
However, once we started going up the stairs carved into the side of the mountain, I knew that we were going to have to get to the top so that we could go down the other side because I did not think my knees could take going down these things. So, we soldiered on, and I am so glad that we did. I love my home state and will put its natural beauty against that of the other 49 any day of the week, but I have honestly never seen anything like what we saw on that hike. The scale of those mountains and waterfalls is beyond compare or description.
After about five hours, dozens of once-in-a-lifetime views, and around four husband temper tantrums, we finally made it to the top. When you reach it, you are atop Nevada Falls and have a close-up view of Half Dome.
It was an incredible experience the likes of which I may never have again. Every step of the hike up to the top was worth it. My husband and I picnicked at the top of the falls and watched tourists take selfies next to the falls that we were sure were going to end in disaster. Then we made our way slowly down back to the base of the valley. We were so exhausted from our hike that we headed back to the car, stopped by El Cap on the way out (check out Free Solo on Disney+ if you haven’t done so yet for a whole new appreciation of that particular mountain) and headed back to AutoCamp for an early dinner and bedtime!
Our trip to Yosemite was too short but is something I will never forget. America’s national parks are the envy of the world and Yosemite is amongst its crown jewels. If you want to see the very best of the natural world, I urge you to visit Yosemite National Park. If I can help you make the trip, please contact me and I will be happy to do so. You will be glad you did!
For more practically perfect tips, contact Caitlin at Caitlin.JollyHoliday@gmail.com.